The Characteristics of Rienzome (a traditional method of fabric dyeing)
- It is reversible (the same patterns appear both on front and reverse sides)
- It enables colorful designs by using multi-color stencil
- It allows a spatial freedom for designs and patterns of Tenugui
Through the entire production process in the Tenugui manufacturing, over ten master craftsmen are employed to precede the following work steps:
1.Katagami (stencil)
A Tenugui design is drawn on the special stencil paper (渋紙), which is made by smoked handmade paper with persimmon (Diospyros kaki L.) tannin. All designs are created by professional drawer and carvers. The process is finished with the attachment of a silk netting (紗張) to a carved stencil (型紙).
2.Preparation of fabrics
Some steps must be taken by a Sarashi (bleaching) professional craftsman before the fabric is ready for the coloring process. This process is called Neriji. Dirt and starchiness are removed from the fabric in order for the easy penetration of dye. When dried, the fabric is firmly rolled up to smooth out the wrinkled surface.
3.Preparing paste for coloring
Professional paste maker prepares paste. Paste is used for marking the color pattern of design in Kataoki (型置) process. Paste avoids mixing up colors at dyeing. Two types of paste are used traditionally. The selection of types depends upon a dyeing method. The first type is made from powdered Mochiko (sweet rice) and Nuka (rice bran). The second type is made from seaweed.
4.Kataoki (paste resist application)
Color pattern is demarcated with paste on the stencil. During the processes of paste resist application and coloring, the length of the fabric is kept to about 12m long, cut only after these processes are completed. In Kataoki (型置), a stencil pinned down to a wooden frame by studs. For each application of a paste resist, this wooden frame must always be laid in the same position on the working board. Here, nails serve to mark the positions, functioning as constant reference points when the wooden frame is repeatedly lifted and laid during the whole process of application.
When the first application is done, the fabric is folded to a size of Tenugui. Upon this folded surface, Kataoki is repeated. When this is finished, the fabric is folded further, and the third Kataoki follows. As a result of this repetition, the fabric is folded into a multi-leaf screen, and in between each fold, a paste is sandwiched. Due to the unchanged reference points made possible by nail markings, a paste resist is orderly applied from top to the bottom, covering the identical areas for all the separately processed fabrics.
5.Coloring
Upon the stencil which is now placed on the coloring board, dyes are sprayed with Jyoro (watering can). Then compressor suction follows, penetrating dyes down to the bottom of the fabric. The fabric is then turned over and the same process is repeated for the reverse side. After the coloring, the fabric is soaked with water and then dried.
6.Finishing
When dried, the fabric is repeatedly folded in and out.
The folded fabric is then pressed through a roller,
stretched, and trimmed to a size of Tenugui.
References
Osawa, M. (2005) The complete guide to Tenugui. Banana books. 127pp. ISBN4-902930-02-1
柳宗悦、手仕事の日本、岩波書店
